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Silk Ikat Weaves

Silk Ikat Weaves

In order to understand silk ikat weaves, one must understand the concept of Ikat; Originated from Indonesia many years back, Ikat was the name given to a particular type of fabric dyeing technique. This technique is also known as “resist dyeing,” referring to a way of dyeing where the color does not spread to other parts of the fabric and is restricted to only certain sections, forming patterns. Silk Ikat Weaves came into existence when this dyeing technique was adapted into more expensive and luxurious fabric, like silk. In Odisha, this weave is historically connected to the traditional Lord Jagganath culture of this region. Sarees, scarves, wraps, and other textiles are made out of silk Ikat weaves, but all colors used are traditional and hold a symbolic reference to the deity, Lord Jagganth; these include black, white, red, and yellow.

Tracing Its History

The discovery of Ikat can be found dominatingly in Asia, mainly in Indonesia and Malay regions. The history of Ikat dates back to 200 years ago, but its introduction was done in the European book of textiles much later in the 20th century. Though Ikat has a worldwide history, including in South America, Italy, and Africa, in India, this technique has seen significant growth in the state of Odisha and has been given a G.I. tag by the government of India.

 

Odisha saw the emergence of Ikat in the early days of the 12th century when the Patans of Gujarat migrated to this region and brought this craft along with them. It then flourished in small village areas like Bargarh and Sambalpur. The art of Ikat was slowly adapted into the dominant Lord Jagganath culture and used in temples and important religious ceremonies. 

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How It's Made

Ikat or Ikkat is different from the commonly seen techniques of dyeing, where the whole cloth or fabric is dipped in the dye. Ikat is a form of tie-dye, where parts of the fabric are tied to not let the dye spread, thus, forming patterns. But what differentiates this craft from other tie-dye methods is that the yarns are dyed before weaving of the fabric has even begun- making this technique more complex and intricate.

The process of resist dyeing ensures that the desired patterns are obtained. This is done by tying bundles of yarns and only dyeing parts that will help create the required pattern. Once they acquire the color of the dye, they are then woven to form the Ikat fabric. This textile then travels distances for multiple purposes, starting from rituals to fashion and more. 

Variations of the Ikat

Ikat is majorly seen only on two types of fabric- cotton, and silk. But, these woven fabrics have two basic components common in them; the warp and weft threads that are cross-intersected in the loom. These form the base of the fabric. 

The length-wise threads are warp, which forms the support network for the weft threads, inserted breadth-wise or horizontally. 

Design Elements

Ikat fabrics have remained precious through the ages through its production of diverse and intriguing variations.

 

When only the warp yarns are dyed to form the patterns, and the weft ones are dyed in a solid color for the base, the textile thus formed is called a – Warp Ikat. 

 

Similarly, a Weft Ikat fabric is produced when the weft yarns are dyed to form the design, and the warp is dyed a single color. (Both the warp and weft are called single Ikats)

 

Perhaps, the most complex form of Ikat is the double Ikat fabric, where the warp and weft threads are dyed individually. But eventually, their designs come together when woven, forming a blurry and fascinating pattern all over the fabric. Double Ikats are hence, rare to find and highly-priced.

Silk Ikat Weave Today

Also known as Bandha of Odisha- the artform of Ikat has traveled far enough and modernized with time. Earlier, it was used only in Odisha as part of Lord Jagganath’s rituals. But with time and technology, this craft has traveled through the entire country, catering to various uses, the most famous of which is the Ikat saree. Cotton and silk Ikat sarees are among the most expensive and precious hand-made crafts of the Indian textile industry. Other than that, many designers also use Ikats to make accessories, bags, modern dresses, and even upholstery. 

 

Silk Ikat Weaves are a traditional textile art form that involves resist dyeing the yarns before weaving, resulting in intricate and vibrant patterns, often used in the production of cultural garments such as the bomkai saree and Patola fabric.

Image Credits

Craffi | D'Source | Flickr | Gaon Connection | Odisha | Quirky Wanderer | Telegraph India | The Cultural Heritage of India | India Mart